eat + drink

london’s green gourmets

New eco-friendly eateries are taking the British capital by storm – and not a lentil in sight

Comfort and joy

Chef Oliver Rowe opened Konstam last year in a former pub in London’s King’s Cross neighbourhood. The opening was the focus of a BBC documentary, Urban Chef, as Rowe set about sourcing local, seasonal food from within the London area.

Konstam gives the concept of ‘comfort food’ the fine tuning it deserves, and proves that it’s all the more comforting for body and mind when it’s not processed junk. The next time you get your heart broken, head here. Cheese on toast becomes a delicate starter of Norbury blue and braised chicory on a slice of sourdough. There are no ghosts of greasy British pub food. Instead, you can order a modestly sized plate of doughy pierogi with candy beetroot and goat’s cheese, fresh organic lamb steak or firm-yet-tender sea bass. To finish, a scoop of elderflower ice cream or sharp gooseberry sorbet will satisfy you in ways a processed cookie-dough flavour never could.

“We didn’t set out to be ‘eco-friendly’ as such,” says manager Adam Laing. “Our only priority is the food, and locally sourced, seasonal food is simply the best.” Food and wine for two is around £33 ( €50). SOPHY GRIMSHAW

Konstam at the Prince Albert
2 Acton Street
+44 (0)20 7833 5040
www.konstam.co.uk

Eat your greens

Help save the planet as you savour some great food at London’s first truly eco-friendly restaurant, Acorn House. Built from recycled, sustainable materials, the restaurant is environmentally sound in every possible way – from its use of ‘green’ electricity right through to a wormery that turns all waste into soil for the roof garden. Given this ethos, you’d be forgiven for expecting serious doses of rustic charm and mung beans.

Instead, you’ll find a sleek cafeteria-style space in which executive chef Arthur Potts Dawson (ex-colleague of Jamie Oliver) creates a style of cuisine he calls ‘modern London’. He describes it as “seasonal, sustainable, simple,” and it’s seriously good. Fresh organic ingredients are sourced from small, independent producers for a menu that changes every month. Delicious highlights on this particular night included Stilton and walnut risotto, and char-grilled sea bream with cardamom and horseradish.

Acorn House gives a percentage of its profits to charity, and will train 10 young adults every year in the eco-friendly restaurant trade. Food and wine for two is around £35 ( €52). GINNY CUMMING

Acorn House
69 Swinton Street
+44 (0)20 7812 1842
www.acornhouserestaurant.com

Heart of the country in Notting Hill

The ironically named Bumpkin, a loosely country-themed restaurant located in wealthy Notting Hill, is about as rural as Madonna in her English hunting tweeds – that is, not at all. Wooden antique style furniture may create the look of a squire‘s country house, but exotic floral wallpaper is by a chic London designer. The food is all about simply cooked, hearty British and European dishes done well. Fish dishes are particularly good: fish pie topped with mash is satisfying in colder weather. As for Bumpkin’s green credentials, coffee and tea are Fairtrade, the restaurant has a recycle-where-possible policy, and ingredients, often organic, are sourced from areas near London to cut food miles. Food and wine for two is around £35 ( €52). GEMMA ELWIN HARRIS