Boutique Crete
Forget the thour buses and lukewarm moussaka Heraklion was once infamous for. Thanks to a major regeneration programme, today’s sun-seekers are more likely to come for the high-end shops and laid-back bars dotted along the city’s newly pedestrianised streets
words by Julie Alpine
photography by Emma Peios
Elite, Agios Titou Square
One of the many hip hangouts found clustered around Agios Titou Square, where the bars seem to change their names as often as their cocktail lists. From Greek rock to international guest DJs, there’s never any excuse not to party till dawn.
Izmir Kebap, Agios Titou Street
The ubiquitous kebab gets a slick makover in this Turkish-style restaurant, where meat is cooked to order over an open grill. Vegetarians are well catered for too, with a wide array of Mediterranean appetisers, dips and hot fluffy pitta on offer.
Kira, Evans Street
Kira stocks a wide selection of unique jewellery from up-and-coming European designers. These days it’s less about buying a traditional Greek evil eye pendant and more about eyeing up a bracelet that will look great with your tan.
Elies Restaurant, Venizelou Street
After a hard afternoon’s shopping, head for Elies (the Greek for olives), a stylish restaurant that serves simple, local dishes. Rest your aching feet while you sip a glass of white wine or two and ponder the extensive menu.
Mayo, Mirabelou Street
With interior design to rival some of the hottest bars in Paris or London, the Mayo is famed for its up-to-date playlist, killer cocktails and friendly atmosphere, making it popular with tourists and locals alike. Be prepared for a late night.
Mastiha Shop, Venizelou Square à
The ancient Greeks used it to cure bellyaches, Roman emperors to spice their wine and Middle Eastern women of the harem as make-up. Originating on the island of Chios, mastiha was the world’s earliest form of chewing gum, and is still sold in modern-day Heraklion for that purpose. The perfect cheap, easy-to-pack souvenir.
The Ice Factory, Agios Titou Square
Considered the hub of Heraklion nightlife by many, The Ice Factory (Pagopoieion) is housed in a long-defunct, yes, ice factory, which has been renovated by the owner. A great place for a cocktail and a nibble, though a full meal might break the budget.
Dolce, Milatou Street
You’ll have to arrive early if you want to get a seat in Dolce, a strong contender for the ‘Crete’s coolest café’ crown. There’s a wide selection of Greek coffees on offer and the low lighting is loved by those who are still feeling fragile from the night before.
Baraonda, Agios Titou Street
With its stained-glass windows and comfy sofas, Baraonda is a favourite of the frappé-drinking local set, although the secret is unlikely to be safe for long if they keep talking about it in such glowing terms. The ideal spot for lounge lizards.
Xithakis, Handakos Street
After partying all night, sunglasses are a must for the morning after. And, as you’d expect in a place that boasts 300 days of sunshine a year, there’s plenty of choice, from designer rip-offs on street stalls to the real deal in boutiques like this one.
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