tastemakers – alexandre de betak
Paris-born Alexandre de Betak, 37, is the creative visionary behind the fashion-show extravaganzas of Viktor & Rolf, Christian Dior and Hussein Chalayan. He recently designed the interiors of the modishly noir Parisian restaurant BC (Black Calvados)
interview by Bethan Ryder
What do you love about living in Paris?
For a start, my two young sons are in Paris. I lived here for 20 years, then I went to New York for 12 years – now I live between Paris and New York. I enjoy the city like a foreigner by living in a pied à terre rather than being entirely French in my approach. Once you manage to do that, you get the best of the place. Every day you rediscover how incredibly beautiful it is. It’s not fast and crazy like New York, but it’s stimulating in a more human way; every square inch of every corner is beautiful. I live on the Trocadero and am blessed with views of the Eiffel Tower. Paris is like a giant postcard. If you’re lucky enough to leave regularly, then when you return, it’s actually a pleasure to be in that postcard.
How did you get involved with designing fashion shows?
I started taking photos for Spanish magazines while still in school. When I was 17, I met a brilliant Spanish designer named Sybilla and started doing her fashion PR. Then I got involved in her art direction and shows during the late ’80s and early ’90s. I really enjoyed that, so I moved to New York to do show production in 1994. Ironically, my first clients were European designers: Prada and the launch of Miu Miu. Donna Karan was my first big American client and then Victoria’s Secret. I’m pleased to say that most of the designers I work with have been with me for a long time: Hussein Chalayan for 10 years, Galliano and Dior and Viktor & Rolf for eight years.
Where do you find inspiration?
Absolutely everywhere: in books, in art, on the web – that’s once I’ve decided on a concept, but the ideas come from everyday life. Sometimes the clients already have a theme; other times, it’s incredibly abstract. But certain things are a constant tool in my method of expression; one of them is light.
What object couldn’t you live without?
I guess the only things I really couldn’t live without are my books. There are thousands, which I dip into for reference or food for thought.
How would you describe your work in three words?
”I don’t know.” I can’t think of a better answer. For my work to be good, it shouldn’t be describable. It should be open to every means and medium I can use. Even though what I do is ostensibly often the same – ultimately it’s a fashion show with a person walking down a runway showing clothes – for it to be interesting it should always have originality. Essentially anything goes as long as it’s well choreographed, cued and calculated. It’s got to be dynamic and efficient; if it’s not, it’s useless. There’s too much of everything in the world so if you’re going to do something, it’s got to be memorable. Otherwise, why do it?
How did you find designing BC (Black Calvados) restaurant in Paris?
Part of my job is producing an environment or a set, so it came quite naturally. I’d been asked to design a restaurant before, but it was never the right time or place – until these people came along and I fell in love with the building. Of course, once I’d started, it became much more complicated because it’s slightly different designing a permanent place rather than a temporary show. It’s also harder when you have a completely blank page and no brief whatsoever. It was different, but I’d love to do more! Actually I’ve just designed a room at the Hotel Amour, which is really cute. It’s shiny black but very furry and the ceiling is covered in 250 disco balls that spin concurrently. It’s kind of crazy.
Which product, building or fashion item do you wish you’d designed?
The Eiffel Tower because I’ve grown up dreaming about it and seeing it every day and, if I had designed it, I might have the authorisation to continue to change its look. I can imagine it lacquered in red.
What’s your dream project?
There are too many to list them all here. Right now I design commercial things, but I’d love to do more work with a serious historical or political purpose. Or, at the other extreme, work for purely artistic reasons with no purpose at all; either something meaningful or just for the pleasure of it.
What’s the ‘new black’?
Over the past couple of years black has been the new black: shiny and light – which makes me think that pretty soon matt will probably be the new black.
What’s your philosophy for life?
I have many philosophies or principles: one is never to do anything I’d regret just to get to where I want to go. I cross my fingers that I’ve not done that yet. Also, never to take yourself too seriously – especially if you do what I do. It’s just what it is; it doesn’t make the world go round.
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