whereâ€™s the party in… Biarritz

words by Katherine Bilsborough

For quintessential Biarritz

Once known as the Monte Carlo of the Atlantic, Biarritz has traded its film star glamour for a more laid-back scene of sun, sand and surf. In the summer, do as the locals do and enjoy a picnic lunch. The indoor food market at Les Halles in the centre of the Old Town is a delight for the senses. Stock up on sheep or goat’s cheese, cold meats, a fresh loaf and a bottle of the local wine. Then stroll along the bustling promenade between Grande Plage and Port Vieux until you find a picnic spot to suit.

Relaxed eating and drinking

The Place Sainte Eugénie is the town’s oldest and grandest square, lined with bars and restaurants and busy terraces. Just south of the square is the humbler Port des Pécheurs, an old fishing port with even more eating and drinking spots. For freshly caught seafood head for Chez Albert. Or buy a bottle of wine at one of the port bars and sit and watch the sun go down over the Bay of Biscay.

Le Napoléon Place Sainte Eugénie 7, + 33 (0)5 5924 0885
Chez Albert Port des Pécheurs, + 33 (0)5 5924 4384, www.chezalbert.fr

For clubbers

Biarritz has something for every kind of clubber. Le Caveau is one of the city’s trendiest clubs; gay-friendly and playing mainly house and techno music. Le Play Boy plays ’70s and ’80s tunes and is popular with twentysomethings. For all kinds of Latin and dance music, head for Le Copa. DJ Titi, their resident DJ, is one of the coast’s most acclaimed. Clubs are open from 11pm to 5am.

Le Caveau Rue Gambetta 4, +33 (0)5 5924 1617
Le Play Boy Place Georges Clémenceau 15, +33 (0)5 5924 3846
Le Copa Avenue Edouard VII 24, +33 (0)5 5924 6539, www.lecopa.fr

Where to meet surfers

Surfers are part of the Biarritz landscape all year round and their whole ethos can be felt throughout the town. At night surfers hang out near the shore in hip beach bars such as Le Blue Cargo with its outdoor dance area, or Le Surfing at the far end of the same beach – a busy bar decorated with surfboards and Hawaiian shirts. The Roxy Jam women’s surf festival takes place on Côte des Basques in July every year and attracts over 150,000 spectators (see Diary p11).