Eat+drink

everybody eats there

Where do top models and politicians chow down? They don’t always go for the glitziest restaurants, as a new book reveals

Davé – Paris

Davé (‘Dav-ay’ to you) is perhaps the hippest restaurant in Paris. And as far as Chinese restaurants are concerned, on the global scale of trend, maybe even hipper than Mr Chow is in New York and Beverly Hills. In terms of décor and presentation, there is none; Davé is the other end of the scale to La Tour d’Argent. But in terms of a guiding persona, Dave Cheung ranks right up there with the Tour’s Claude Terrail. Dave may be the most ebullient, gossipiest, most vivacious restaurateur anywhere. Once you’ve registered on Dave’s radar, which isn’t easy, he never forgets a thing about you, and flatters you to death.

There is a sign on Davé’s window that reads complet, or full. Because you’ve booked, you venture in. As you nibble cold shrimp crackers and peruse the spare rib, spring roll, moo-shu Cantonese menu, you can’t help but look at the snaps taken by Dave on the walls: Mick, Keith, Leo, Gisele [pictured], Keanu, Cher, Sting, Naomi, Warhol… Plus all the supergarmentos: Yves St Laurent, Tom Ford, Calvin Klein, John Galliano, Karl Lagerfeld, Donatella Versace, Donna Karan and Anna Wintour, who throws her big parties at Davé. Gaggles of models come in, platters of tofu come out. And is that Charlotte Rampling? Or are preternaturally high cheekbones simply the price of admission here?

Davé 12 Rue de Richelieu, Paris, +33 (0)1 42 61 49 48

Al Moro – Rome

This tiny trattoria is the perfect Italian restaurant. The menu is state-of-the-art cucina della nonna, or ‘grandma food’, the Italian home cooking of the best ingredients, simply and perfectly prepared. Many foodies, in the interest of that divine simplicity, take all their Roman meals at Al Moro. It’s easy to see why.

Not that Al Moro is a friendly, happy-go-lucky dolce far niente kind of place. There’s a rumour that Tom Cruise was asked to leave when one of the owners spotted him squeezing a lemon on his grilled sole. Tom Cruise, whose mere presence would put any restaurant on the global star map. Of course, no one will confirm or deny the rumour. But no one who knows Al Moro would dismiss it as preposterous, either. Stars are ephemeral, food eternal, and in the Eternal City food trumps stars any day.

Al Moro Vicolo delle Bollette 13, +39 06 678 3495

Sweeting’s – London

David Tang loves it, and Michael Chow and half the starred chefs in London would go there if only it weren’t open Monday through Friday for lunch only. The place is Sweetings, the best fish house in the City, a Victorian gem (on Queen Victoria Street to boot) unchanged since 1890 – except for the electric lighting. You want celebs? Here you get London’s true celebs, its pinstriped moneymen. You stand in line with them – and it can be a long line, no favourites – and then sit at the long wooden counters (there are only two tables). The place is owned by fishmongers and you feel like you’re right in the market as you eat succulent smoked salmon with buttered brown bread, grilled Dover sole on the bone, or deep-fried plaice, with old-fashioned homemade chips. Forget green vegetables; real Englishmen don’t touch ’em. Wash it all down with a tankard of Black Velvet (Guinness and champagne).