The Olbia side of the isle

Sun seekers will be more than happy lounging on the glitzy Costa Smeralda, but northern Sardinia has plenty to offer beyond the hotel beach. Excellent wineries, designer bargains, hidden coves and ancient ruins all add to the mix

words by Andrew Catchpole

The beaches of northern Sardinia, folded into secluded rocky coves and inlets, scented by the aromas of wild oleander, mimosa and myrtle, are simply stunning. They leave no doubt as to why, in the 1950s, the Aga Khan chose the now legendary Costa Smeralda to develop as one of the most chic resort areas in the world. Today it remains among the more exclusive holiday destinations, where the international jet set still come to soak up the sun and party. Big spenders drop anchor at the Cala di Volpe resort, which has the most expensive hotel rooms in Italy. Yet there are more reasonably priced retreats, such as the Cervo Tennis Club in the Hotel Cervo complex (Porto Cervo, +39 0789 931111, www.sheraton.com).

Fortunately, for those of us who don’t have a millionaire lifestyle, the Costa Smeralda forms only a small part of a beautiful coastal area that stretches from south of Olbia to Santa Teresa Gallura on the most northerly tip of Sardinia. There are hotels, guest rooms and more rural agriturismi (farmstays) to suit every budget in and around the small towns that dot the coastline.

Everywhere the beaches are idyllic, but if you can tear yourself away from the white sand and turquoise sea for a day or two, there is plenty to explore. It’s a rewarding place, whether you’re hiking through the craggy landscape to hidden coves, trying farm produce in village delis, or taking in the ountainous scenery while keeping an eye out for golden eagles, rare Sardinian salamander or the mouflon (an indigenous long-horned wild sheep). Take a trip into the nearby hills and you’ll discover numerous nuraghic archaeological sites, the incredible remains of civilisation here 3,500 years
ago. And within an easy day trip from the northern coast lie some of Sardinia’s best wineries, which are open for tasting and buying wine.

SUNSEEKERS BEACHES OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

The Costa Smeralda doesn’t have a monopoly on beautiful beaches and, in fact, some of the most sublime lie elsewhere. South of Olbia, amid the thick macchia (scrub) and pink rocks around Porto San Paolo, you’ll find lovely family-friendly beaches. Better still are the sandy coves to the north of Olbia, such as Cala Banana on the Golfo Aranci. On the Costa Smeralda itself, it’s still possible to find delightful spots by heading down little tracks, most notably the beautiful bays of Cappriccioli and Romazzino near Cala di Volpe. The wildest, least tamed beaches, though, are an hour’s drive to the north around the pleasant modern town of Santa Teresa Gallura and the rocky promontory of Capo Testa in particular. There, paths lead down to tiny sandy beaches lapped by an incredibly clear turquoise sea.

FOR SHOPAHOLICS SPLURGE ON LABELS IN PORTO

For those who love designer labels, Porto Cervo is a stylish slice of Milan by the sea. Tucked away in the twisting streets and sunken passages of this almost surreal pinky-orange hued town, lies designer outlet after designer outlet. Names such as Bulgari, Versace, Prada, Louis Vuitton and Tod’s live cheek-by-jowl with banks, swanky restaurants and bars and provide the ultimate in upmarket retail therapy. Even if splashing out on designer goods isn’t your thing, time spent people-watching over a cappuccino in the Piazzetta in the glitzy heart of the Costa Smeralda is a must.

And so is a stroll around the nearby marina where you can ogle the yachts of the super-rich moored there. You’ll find more down-toearth shopping in Olbia, where the numerous delicatessens in the old town are excellent places to stock up on local produce, or in the villages of Porto Rotondo and Palau, where there are shops selling great beachwear. In Santa Teresa Gallura, you’ll find a charming children’s clothes shop called Bimbi on the main square, along with a bookshop stocking a good English language selection for those who forgot to pack their holiday reading.

FOR INDIANA JONESES TOMBS AND TEMPLES

In contrast to the glitzier stretches of coast, the sites of the prehistoric nuraghic remains couldn’t make a better retreat. Two of the most notable nuraghe are a few kilometres inland, close to the small town of Arzachena, from where they are well sign-posted.Nuraghe Albucciu is among the best preserved, with one of the distinct conical stone burial chambers still supporting its roof. Nearby lies the Tempietto Malchittu, a mysterious oval granite structure that experts think may have been the scene of religious sacrifices. It’s an evocative place to wander round, although a guided tour brings it to life, explaining other aspects of nuraghic civilisation and culture. Before setting off, it’s best to call Cooperativa Lithos (+39 35 1276849 or +39 35 1276851), which runs both sites, to find out their openingtimes.

"The Tempietto Malchittu is a mysterious oval granite structure that may have been the scene of religious sacrifices. It’s an evocative place to wander round"

FOR FOODIES SEAFOOD AND SUCKLING PIG

Sardinians love their food and it’s easy to understand why. The climate means that fruit and vegetables have long growing seasons. Meats and cheeses come from the rugged interior and the freshest seafood from the coast. The island’s simple but robustly flavoured cuisine takes its influences from cultures as diverse as northern Africa, Catalan Spain, Italy and other parts of the Mediterranean. As you’d expect from a society where shepherds are still frequently seen tending their flocks in the hills, lamb and mutton feature highly, particularly inland. Other specialities you may see on a rustic trattoria menu include porcheddu (whole roast suckling pig) and cinghiale (wild boar), which is enthusiastically hunted in the island’s mountainous interior. On the coast, seafood is king, and the plump red prawns, tuna, swordfish, lobster (a speciality in the charming Catalan town of Alghero) and much loved bottarga (salted and dried mullet roe) all add to the pleasure of eating out.

Other excellent Sardinian specialities that you’ll find in food shops include frutti alla martorana, marzipan shaped into colourful fruits, and sebade, light pastry cases stuffed with creamy cheese and wild honey. The thin, crispy pane carasau bread and local sheep’s cheese, pecorino, are also rightly famed all over Italy. Of course, the Costa Smeralda is packed with places to eat and drink. In Porto Cervo, try Panino Giusto (via della Marina Nuova, +39 0789 91259) by the yacht harbour for healthy pasta and salads or Tattoo (Listia di Vacca, +39 0789 957013) for a taste of the high life and modern Mediterranean food. For simple Sardinian cooking, it’s worth asking locals for recommendations wherever you find yourself. A couple of good options include the rustic Quattro Mori ristorante-pizzeria on the high street in Arzachena or San Giorgio on Vicolo La Maddalena in Palau.

FOR WINE BUFFS MOSCATO AND MORE

Finally, a word about Sardinian wine. Little known beyond the island’s shores, Sardinians produce some rather good wine. The best include the rich, fruity red cannonau – the grenache of southern France and Spain, brought by Catalan overlords many years ago; the crisp, sprightly vermentino, of which Vermentino di Gallura is often best; plus gentle, golden-hued sweet wines from Malvasia and Moscato. Producer names to look out for in wine shops (enoteche) and restaurants include Sella & Mosca, Pala, Cantina Gallura, Contini, Gostalai, Dolianova and Santadi. You can find details of these wines in English on the Movimento Turismo del Vino website (www.movimentoturismovino.it). But if Olbia and the northwest coast are your base, then it’s worth investigating the Cantina Gallura (9 via Val di Cossu, Tempio Pausania, +39 079 631241, ww.cantinagallura.it) or the further flung Gostalai just outside Oliena (+39 0784 285375). Sardinia’s most famous winery, Sella & Mosca, is perfectly placed for anyone making the trip to Alghero (+39 079 997700, www.sellaemosca. com) as it lies 10km outside of town. For directions and to confirm a visit it is better to phone first.