A cook’s tour of Paris
around the world in quartiers four
Think you know Paris? Chef Danyel Couet takes us on a cook’s tour of the quarters most visitors never reach
words by Danyel Couet
Although he’s best known for the Michelin-starred Stockholm restaurant F12, Danyel Couet’s classic French style gives more than a nod to his Parisian roots. In his new book Danyel Couet’s Paris: from Chèvre Chaud to Couscous Merguez (New Holland, £24.99; approx. €32), he embarks on a culinary tour of his home town. Here we accompany Danyel on a stroll through some of his favourite neighbourhoods and try recipes based on the flavours of each quartier
the indian quarter
La Chapelle, 10th arrondissement
Metro: La Chapelle
“My road to India goes via the Rue du Faubourg Saint Denis. In the area surrounding La Chapelle metro station, it’s more Hindi and Urdu that you hear on the streets than French. In Paris’ ‘Little India’, the whole atmosphere creates a desire to put together a flavourful curry paste, or maybe a sweet and fruity grapefruit chutney, which complements everything from lamb steaks to fresh fish. Vegetarian dishes here are exquisite, as is the quickly baked naan bread, served with characterful dishes bursting with tamarind, caraway and inumerable spices.”
a taste of the place
spice-fried fish
600 g white fish, such as halibut, flounder or sea bass, with skin
1 tbsp whole fennel seeds
1 tsp black mustard seeds
1 tsp whole cumin seeds
1 cinnamon stick, crushed
1 tsp turmeric
½ tsp ground black pepper
1 tsp grated ginger
1 tsp salt
2 tbsp corn oil
For the sauce
1 tsp butter
1 tbsp finely chopped coriander
1 green chilli, finely chopped
50 ml orange juice
salt and black pepper
1. Roast the fennel seeds, mustard seeds, cumin and cinnamon in a dry hot pan. Let cool.
2. Grind the spices to a powder in a spice grinder or coffee grinder. Combine the spice mixture with the turmeric, pepper, ginger and salt.
3. Slice the fish into portionsized pieces and rub them with the spice mixture. Warm a frying pan with the oil. Fry the fish for about 3 minutes on each side.
4. Lift the fish out of the pan and put in the butter, coriander and chilli. Fry for about 1 minute. Add the orange juice and season with salt and black pepper. Strain the sauce and serve it with the fried fish.
the african quarter
La Goutte d’Or, 18th arrondissement
Metro: Château Rouge
“That Africa and the Caribbean meet in one and the same Parisian quarter is of course not so strange, historically speaking. The markets in La Goutte d’Or are a wonderful mixture of familiar and unfamiliar products. The streets run through blocks somewhat past their prime but the market stands are anything but poor. In big, indiscriminate piles, there are products from Senegal, Haiti, Cameroon and Ghana. Mountains of plantains, cans of palm oil, and coriander seeds in large jute sacks.”
a taste of the place
pineapple and coconut salsa with pomegranate
2 coconuts; halved shells and 3 tbsp grated coconut
1 pineapple, finely cubed
2 habanero chillies, deseeded and chopped
1 pomegranate, seeds only
2 spring onions, thinly sliced
3 tbsp lime juice
1 tbsp palm oil salt and black pepper pineapple leaves, shredded, for garnish
1. Halve the coconuts, scrape out the meat, and grate it.
2. Mix all the ingredients and add salt and pepper to taste. Place the salsa in the coconut halves. Serve as an accompaniment for grilled food or stews.
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